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小沙的星辰

三毛曾经说过:“读书和旅行,是我个人生命中的两颗一级星。快乐最深的时光,大半都由这两件事情中得来。而这种经验,其实又交杂着一种疼痛,说不明白的。”

在这个炎热的季节,终于,踏上了寻访三毛祖屋的路途,开始了这段寻梦之旅。辗转多次,踏上了舟山的土地。不曾歇息,就马不停蹄地奔向小沙,急迫的心情已经让我忘了留意舟山的风景。坐在前往小沙的巴士上,眼看着路旁的房屋一幢幢消失,仿佛通向的不是一个名人的祖屋,而是一段不归路。纵使天蓝得不见一朵流云,绿树的环绕让人误以为是幅画镜,心中的凄凉仍阵阵袭来。三毛,你在遥远的天际是否也会有感如此?会么?是的,你不会。你不会在意别人的赞美,欣赏,憧憬,甚至连诋毁也不甚介意,你有荷西就足够了,这个全世界最最懂你的人。

下了车,问讯之后终于来到了祖屋的门前。大门紧闭,却是没有上锁。木门已是破败不堪,门旁的墙壁也已斑驳。心,还是不由地凉了一凉,即使来之前就已听说了它的颓唐。如今亲眼所见,仍是无法抑制。

推门进入,了无一人,屋子是光鲜了许多,许是翻新过。喊了几声,没有回应。是错过了开放时间么?跑到门口,发现4点半才是闭门时间,现在4点刚过。不想放弃,妄想着可以等到人来。身体已经累透,也就忽略卫生问题,丢下背包,坐到台阶上,心中却是疑虑万千。看着里屋紧锁的门窗,身旁大幅却破损的海报,忍不住问自己这里真会开放么。同伴让我看那些盆栽,枝叶茂盛,不像是没有人打理的迹象,再去看里屋,门上的把手也没有灰尘。白天定是有人的,但是却不能说明每天都会开放,毕竟这里方位偏僻,多日都不见得会有人来,工作人员偷懒也是正常。等了许久,终是无人。

找到旅社,打算第二日继续。一个小镇,又怎么能奢求多么舒适的住宿环境?没有空调,只有两台破旧的风扇吱呀作响;电视机音量开到最大也无法听清人物说话的声音;床上的席子也足以令一条白毛巾变成黑毛巾;厕所是公用的。也许逆境是另一种机遇。因为风扇的不起作用,我和同伴来到走廊。因为电视机的损坏,我们注意起了小镇的暮色。蓝色的天空渐暗,渲染着点点红光。终于迎来了黑夜,许是十五,月亮格外圆。若明若暗的星辰点缀着暗色的夜空,就如一块黑色的画布上洒落了点点金粉。看见一颗光芒四射的星,知道该是北极星,却是忍不住地遐思,那是三毛,她在用她的光芒照耀这个小镇,她在用她的光芒指引旅人的道路,她是小沙的天空最璀璨的星辰。

第二日的等待,终于没有失望。看见了三毛的影像,三毛的背包,三毛的套装,三毛收藏的耳饰、链子、银锁、西班牙马铃,印度手工布,还有她涂鸦的亚当夏娃小雕像,也看见了《滚滚红尘》的手稿,字体一律向右倾斜,倾斜的角度达到60度。看完了所有的展物,却没有看见那个荷西找遍了整个沙漠,结婚时送给三毛的骆驼头骨,只有一张照片,不免有些遗憾。

离开了祖屋,想要告别,无处告别。突然发现,这样的偏僻也是一种欣慰,少了蜂拥的的游客的打扰,只是静静地在这儿,迎接着真正喜欢三毛的旅人。

 小沙,我走了。

发表于 2011年7月26日 16:39

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